DFH~Members

CURRENT MODS

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• Cosmetic

  • Clear Corner turn signals

  • PIAA 1400 Driving Lights

• Engine

  • Breathing

    • Iceman Drylands setup. This is far superior to the Wetlands setup/filter on a stick. You can definitely FEEL the improvement esp in low and mid range torque/HP in the Drylands over the Wetlands configuration. Don't believe the HYPE about sucking in water. Just don't drive through 3 foot deep water at WOT. Just let off the gas and you should be all set....

    • Neuspeed N2 ceramic header - Same as DC Sports, but with more ceramic coating outside (4 vs 2) and even 2 coatings on the inside for superior flow and heat insulation. Are they the best header out there? Probably not, but you'll have to pay a lot more for Mugen or the like to see a noticeable power difference. It may also come at the expense of low-end torque. You won't gain a tremendous amount from a header alone.
    • Greddy BL stainless cat-back exhaust - Not much to say here, except it's pretty expensive but it sounds good, makes a little power, and at least part of it is Stainless...
    • Random Technology Cat - Got this used off of Greg (VTEC4GS from the message boards) in NYC. I met him at Rampage Racing when he set up Dyno Day. I noticed a little different sound, but I also did a bunch of other stuff at the same time (CTR intake cam, Stillen FPR, AEM Gears, Unorthodox Racing Underdrive pulley), so I can't single out the effect from this mod. If you have a lot of miles, it can't hurt since the CAT may get plugged up over time and rob some power. If anywhere, I noticed it in the mid and upper rpm range.
    • RC Engineering 4 mm overbore on stock TB (final size is 64 mm) with port-matched intake manifold. This made a great difference in throttle response and high end. You definitely know that there is more air flowing. I've heard people complain about driveablility, but I don't mind it. They say it can rob low-end torque, but I feel like I have more because of the incredible throttle response.
  • Fuel
    • Stillen Adjustable Fuel Pressure Riser - This is currently unconnected since it was messing up my idle. I may send it to Stillen to have it checked out.
    • Stock Injector soon to be Balanced and Blueprinted. May go to the 270 cc size or so?
  • Ignition/Electronics
    • NGK Copper plugs replaced the Beru Silverstones which didn't do anything for me. Copper don't last as long as Platinum, but copper is a better conductor, and they are much cheaper. I'd rather just replace them more freq.
    • Magnecor 8.5 mm Race Wires - These replaced the overhyped and ex$pen$ive Nology Hotwires. Right after replacing these, my car seemed to run MUCH BETTER, rev quicker, and pull harder. I've heard a lot of negative things about Nology (mostly interference issues), but almost nothing bad about Magnecor. Wires won'd really make a big diff unless yours are spent.
    • MSD SCI ignition amp, MSD Hyper EVC Coil, MSD Distributor Cap for external coil.- I'm waiting for Hank from HP Engineering to get back from vaca to install this for me, along with my Field SFC VTEC Controller. Hopefully this will give even better throttle response, better high rpm respone, and maybe even a little more peak power, although I wouldn't count on it. It will also be nice if I go with NOS, to help keep things lit properly...
    • Field SFC VTEC controller - As I alluded above, I'm waiting for Hank to take care of this one. This handy device can alter the VTEC x-over point to the bigger profile, and also adjust fuel as a function of rpm, by tricking the ecu. In my case, I want to use the former to RAISE the VTEC x-over point to ~ 5k rpm, and maybe lean out the low rpm range and richen the upper rpm range for maximum power. I'll probably also get an a/f meter to help with tuning. Perhaps the Field will help for smog testing by letting me lean out and thus clean up, my idle. I'm probably running rich with the FPR right now? With my CTR intake cam, I hit a "flat spot" around 4400 rpm - 5000 rpm, since this cam was designed to kick in at a higher rpm (as it does in the CTR). I think the x-over for the CTR is around 5700 rpm, but I can probably cross it lower because of the different characteristics of the GSR motor, such as the dual stage intake manifold which I believe the CTR lacks , as in the ITR.
  • Head/Bottom-End/Other Engine
    • All I've done so far is the CTR intake cam and AEM adjustable cam gears. This is with stock valvetrain. In the near future, I'd like to get headwork (Preferably DPR Stage V, VI or VII?), get Titanium retainers, and bigger/lighter valves. Then I'll be able to raise the Rev limit to 8600 rpm or so and stay in my new higher power band. If you look on my Dyno Plot (Unavailable as of right now), you'll see that the curve is still going up at cutoff. As for the bottom-end, I probably need new rings, perhaps the Total Seal Gapless ones, although I hear they burn oil. I may also get higher compression pistons and/or a thinner head gasket to raise compression since the only FI I'll be using is NOS...
    • I also got an Unorthodox Racing Underdrive pulley, which looks like hell, but seems to work okay. It really seems to make the car rev faster (due to less parasitic drag), but I got it done with a lot of other things at once so I can't pinpoint it's contribution. They are proven to work on a dyno and in principle, so they're a good investment for a few more hp.
• Suspension/Drivetrain/Brakes
  • Dunlop SP 9000 in 205 50 15 on the stock rims. These are much better in the dry and God-like in the wet. No more inadvertent lane changes when it rains >8^D
  • Koni Single Adjustable Shocks (The yellow ones)
  • Neuspeed Sport Spring (2" drop)
  • Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit
  • Exedy Full Face Organic clutch. Got this from Options along with the MSD stuff and the Magnecor wires. I had to have Clair Acura install it, since Hank is on vaca and swamped. I got GOUGED on the price, but it seems to work well. Right now (5/15), I'm in the process of breaking it in, and trying to get it ready for an Autox in Salem, NH on Sunday 5/16. I already missed my first opportunity at Drag Racing on Friday 5/14, so I really want to make this one. I've heard to try to do 500 "easy/normal" miles before hammering on it too hard. I've tried but it's been very tough. I'm also trying to do a lot of stop n go driving to speed up the process. So far I've almost driven 200 miles on it, but it still doesn't seem broken in yet (1st and reverse chatter on take-off?). We'll see how many miles I can log today.
  • Added Power Slot rotors in front and Axxis Metal master pads all around. My stainless steel lines didn't come in yet though.

Future Plans/Mods Log

Well, I'm almost done with the Bolt-on stage. The next thing to consider is head and bottom-end work, and possibly the 75 direct port shot of NOS I keep talking about. Stay Tuned...

FB

Current Performance Data (as of 10/23/1999)

(G)-GTECH Pro

(D)-Dynojet

(T)-Track

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